Lock installation and replacement in Raleigh

Which deadbolt should I buy?

Look for the ANSI/BHMA grade on the package. Grade 1 is the highest rating for strength and durability, Grade 2 is solid for most homes, and Grade 3 is the minimum. A Grade 1 or Grade 2 single-cylinder deadbolt from an established brand is the right choice for most exterior doors. The grade matters more than the price tag or the finish.

What makes a door harder to kick in?

Most forced entries break the frame, not the lock. Three inexpensive details make the difference:

• A heavy-gauge strike plate fixed with 3-inch screws that reach the stud behind the jamb
• A bolt that extends fully. If you have to lift or push the door to lock it, the bolt is probably not seating all the way.
• Long screws in the hinges on the other side of the door

We check all three on any installation and fix the alignment so the bolt throws cleanly.

Are smart locks worth it?

For many households, yes: no keys to hide, codes you can give and take away, and a record of when the door was used. What to check before buying:

• Your door has to close and latch without help. A motor cannot overcome a door that sticks, which matters in Raleigh's humid summers when wood doors swell.
• Decide between a built-in Wi-Fi model and one that needs a hub.
• Keep a key override or an external battery contact, so a dead battery does not lock you out.

Can you fit a lock on a door that has never had one?

Yes. A fresh installation means boring the cross-hole and edge hole to the correct backset, mortising the latch and strike so they sit flush, and aligning everything so the door closes on the latch without slamming. We do this on wood, fiberglass and metal doors.